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盛夏喀纳斯,踏上寻找水怪之旅

一直盛传喀纳斯湖里有水怪,每年都有几个游人拍到,巨大的体型在水下披荆斩棘的游过,气势宏然。前几日还又冒头了一次,直接上了CCTV新闻。官方的解释是,水下可能有一头史前巨型哲罗鲑,姑且信之。这趟不知道有没有缘分见到水怪,但喀纳斯的美景确实是滋养灵物的好地方。

来喀纳斯这么多次,第一次看到她的夏季限定景色。黄色的顶冰花是喀纳斯那仁草原上的报春使者,它们的嫩叶还在冰雪中时就蓄势顶着冰雪而出,因此而得名。直到春夏的暖阳投射在这块牧场上,漫山的顶春花迅速的涂满鲜绿的牧场,金色的花瓣摇曳在雪山之下,清冽的芬芳吸引着牛啊羊啊,来到这片世外桃源般的夏季牧场。

那仁草原位于喀纳斯边缘,是当地哈萨克人的夏季牧场。每年秋冬过毕,骑着骏马的哈萨克牧民们,便会将牛羊赶往这处封闭了大半年的室外桃园。

去年的寒冬时间格外的漫长,我们一行6月中旬抵达那仁草原,牧民们刚刚转场完毕。

久旱逢甘霖的牛羊新临茂密的草地,贪恋的躺在草原上不愿起身。

三三两列的恬静的躺在雪山下吃草,一片和睦的田园风光。

奶水充足的母牛也豪爽的供给着小牛吃着奶。

其实我这趟进山,还有一个主要目的,就是看金莲花。每年的5月,金莲花就会开遍漫山遍野,花期长达一个月,金色的地毯铺满大地。

今年莫名的,喀纳斯的花期晚了一个月,和顶冰花同场竞技,所以我也赶紧进山看看。

各种深浅不一的黄色各现缤纷,实在是漂亮~和顶春花不同的是,金莲花看着更娇艳一些,而且密度更大。顶春花只是三三两两间杂在嫩绿的草地上,而金莲花是成群的怒放,远远的就能看到一片一片耀眼的金黄。

阿勒泰的金莲花是最能代表喀纳斯区域特点的花草,提起金莲花,人们就会想起喀纳斯。与喀纳斯区域的大多数花草一样,金莲花也是一种中药材。当地人感冒发烧,取它的少许花瓣冲泡饮用,据说清热解毒的效果还不错。

生活中总容易碰到不如意,我每次排遣的方式,就是在天地间徜徉,这样就会收获一份平静。爬山、徒步、溯溪,把自己交还给自然。

在山野还在熟睡的时候,我在黎明中早早醒来。走出星空营地,周围是起伏山岭的山峦,山峦上长满多彩的牧草和鲜花,花草们躺在喀纳斯湖青绿色的怀抱中~喀纳斯,不管什么季节,总能吸引各种挑剔的目光。顺着观鱼台的1086级台阶拾级而上,视野也变得逐渐空旷。

登上钓鱼台,整个喀纳斯湖最美的段落便聚焦于眼前。

宝石蓝的湖水泛着粼粼波光,险峻的奇山屹立两旁,远处又依稀可见皑皑的雪山。如此美丽又魅惑的湖水,即使没有传说中的湖怪,四散的魅力,也足够感染每一个登山的人。

“哇,这好像新西兰~”耳边只听到小伙伴们此起彼伏的夸赞声。以前来喀纳斯徒步了N趟,都是没日没夜,山里走好几天那种。这趟终于走了趟喀纳斯即将发布的新线路,“行走湖中梦境吐别克”,坐船抵达四道弯,步行40分钟,穿越云杉、雪松、落叶松密布的原始森林,最后抵达哈萨克人的冬窝子,太舒畅了。

吐别克是一处没有游人知道的妙境,和夏季牧场相反,这里是一处冬窝子。所谓冬窝子,就是牛羊们过冬的地方。吐别克偏居一隅,只有坐船才能抵达。

喀纳斯湖实在是太巨大了,每段的风光都格外的旖旎。从码头出发行船将近1小时,才抵达目的地。

从码头出来,只有一条道,行走40分钟便可抵达。

一路上的湖光山色也是让人心旷神怡。

确实有种行走在新西兰的感觉。

走进冬窝子,里面都是哈萨克牧民的小木屋,但却没有人,都已转场去了夏秋牧场。房屋也都没有锁,一种路不拾遗的感觉。

在无人的小村穿梭,恬静舒适,还多了一种探险的奇妙氛围。

饭还是新疆的香,徒步一小时后,专门安排在冬窝子接待我们的哈萨克家庭,拿出了各种牛羊肉。喀纳斯的羊肉串味道非同一般啊,尤其是徒步完自己亲手烤的~

喀纳斯,每次来到这里,就像离开了凡间,不用去管水怪的玄幻传说,光是自然本身的美,就足够震撼和惊讶。

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